Reed Outing Club

CLIMBING: Rocks, fake rocks, and ice.

Have you gone somewhere and want to tell people about it? We are always accepting new descriptions. If you want more information on an area, there are many guidebooks down in the coop for you to use. Send submissions, or questions to roc@reed.edu

rocks | ice and mountaineering| gym

ROCK CLIMBING

ROCKY BUTTE

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

"Known for its history as a retired rock quarry. This popular spot is great for the novice and the experienced climber. Take 82nd Ave. to Fremont, about 2 miles north of I-84. Head east towards the butte, as the road Y's, continue left, this will be 91st. Either rapp down or take class three trails to the bottom. This is an excellent place to boulder and practice top roping.

FRENCHE'S DOME

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

"This peculiar outcropping of rock is easily accessible from Lolo Pass Rd. There are at least a dozen routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+, with a fun 4th class jaunt up the back side to the summit. Most routes are fixed with bolts requiring only occasional natural pro placement and a blast to lead. Drive 6.2 miles north from Highway 26 and look for a dirt pullout on the right. The tip of the dome is just barely visible above the trees."

BEACON ROCK

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

"Beacon offers steep, highly sustained, full and multi-pitch, technically demanding climbs of almost unlimited styles and ratings. This is bold climbing, Beacon's easiest route is 5.7 and multi-pitch, while the majority of routes range from 5.10 to 5.11+, demanding and sustained. Beacon Rock is 28 miles east of Vancouver on State Route 14. Be aware that this is seasonal climbing and is open the first part of August."

BROUGHTON BLUFF

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

"The all-time original Portland crag, Broughton Bluff is composed of 13 major walls. There are only a handfull of bolted routes, with the majority of them ranging from 5.10 to 5.12+ Cracks reign supreme at Broughton, one of the classics being Gandalf's Grip, a three pitch, 5.9+ located on the north face. Located off I-84 at the Lewis & Clark State Park exit east of Troutdale. Turn south along the roadway to the steep hillside and follow the path that leads upward. Either take the path straight up to where it meets rock or follow the newer gentle grade that angles up right to the Hanging Gardens Wall."

HORSETHEIF BUTTE

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

"Another popular place for teaching novices and escaping the ever prevailing Portland rain, Horsethief is best suited for top-roping and bouldering. Ticks dominate the 30 ft. walls of this popular site in season so be prepared to fend off these nasty little critters. Take I-84 east to exit 87 just east of the Dalles. Cross the bridge into Washington 3.5 miles north to State Route 14. Turn right (east) and drive 2.5 miles passing Horsethief Lake State Park. Park near a state park sanctuary sign just beyond a small bridge. Walk south and enter via a hidden entrance leading to the inner corridors."

SALMON RIVER SLAB

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

Drive south from Zig Zag of FS Road 2618 for approx. 3.8 miles. At a pullout next to a good fishing hole on the Salmon River, you'll find a black slab about 50 feet wide offering about six good routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11, two of them being bolted with fixed anchors.

WATERBOARD CITY PARK

(from REI's "local climbing" pamphlet)

"These minor cliffs are short, yet fairly extensive offering some route potential. Routes range from 5.4 to 5.10 and there are several steep sections along the approach, so be careful when exploring. To get there, drive south out 99E to Tumwater Rd. just south of Oregon City, eventually leading to South 2nd St. Stop. Continue straight to the next stop. Turn right (SW) then immediately turn left onto John Adams St. and wander up a poor road grade to a dead end on the right."

SMITH ROCK

ICE CLIMBING & MOUNTAINEERING

MOUNT HOOD

MOUNT ADAMS

Not accessible once the snows start, Adams is nonetheless one of the driest of the Cascade Range. The ROC glacial skills clinic goes here every year to practice ice climbing, and cravasse rescue and other glacial skills. Half of Adams is owned by the Yakima indians, so if you go there, make sure you know what side you are going to be climbing on. You can pick up assembled Mt. Adams waste disposal packets at the Mt. Adams Ranger Station. We also have a few in the backpack coop.

Doug Borst
March 2005

GYM CLIMBING

PORTLAND ROCK GYM

The PRG is located on 21 NE 12th Ave in Portland (12th and Sandy), about 15 minutes by car from Reed. The gym has climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.13, with extensive lead climbing and some bouldering. Climbs in the main section go up to 38 feet, with many routes to choose from. The Gray Fund sponsors a few trips to PRG each semester, generally on Sunday evenings. As it is the only rock gym actually in Portland, going to the gym can be a little pricey at $14 for a day pass and $67 for one month. However, it is convenient, and it offers excellent indoor climbing.

Doug Borst
March 2005

STONEWORKS CLIMBING GYM

Stoneworks is 30 minutes away from Reed in Beaverton, and resides in an unassuming warehouse on the outskirts of the suburb. Stoneworks is cheaper than the PRG, at $10 a pop, and offers the best indoor bouldering in the area. The routes in their bouldering cave are changed monthly, at a bouldering joust where you can work on brand new problems with other Stoneworks junkies. Stoneworks also has lead climbing and top rope sections.

Doug Borst
March 2005

MHCC ROCK GYM

Mount Hood Community College is the gym where the Reed rock climbing class goes for its lessons. At $8.00 a visit, MHCC offers low priced climbing, but at a half hour to 40 minutes away from Reed and only having 25' climbs, the price may not be worth it to a seasoned climber looking for challenges above 5.9. Their climbing wall is located on their pool deck, which makes the room very hot, and the holds at times somewhat damp. Dont look for peaceful solitude during your climbing here, local swim teams and lessons are held in the pool, and the shouts of small children ring in the tile lined room. That being said, MHCC does offer a great spot for people trying to get into the sport on a budget.

Doug Borst
March 2005

THE CIRCUIT BOULDERING GYM

The Circuit is a new gym just across the Wilamette from Reed! Its within a 20m ride by bike. The Circuit is purely a bouldering gym with nary a harness or rope in sight. They have all varieties of bouldering routes including a huge boulder that never touches the ground. Its $10 a pop and $34 a month for students, offering a cost effective alternative to the PRG. Check it out!

Doug Borst
March 2005