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Forty minutes from the center of Managua, we turned
off onto a dirt road that lost itself in a jumble of tiny houses, pieces
of particleboard pinned together with black plastic,and tin roofing. Children
streaked with soil played in their underwear. The car stopped, and 14
Reedies, at the end of the first Reedie Jalapeño Cultural Exchange
(RJCE), were confronted by the neighborhood called New Life.
Our guide, Doña Carmeen, told us about the people
who lived in the tiny houses and said many were starving. She explained
that the economic strategy of Nicaraguas new government had produced
70 percent unemployment and a two-dollar-a-day wage. Residents formed
a broken circle around us and interjected personal anecdotes to emphasize
Carmeens story. Children smiled at us and hugged our legs. We had
arrived on Mothers Day, a huge holiday in Nicaragua. Everyone had
the day off from work to celebrate.
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But for Sylvia, a grandmother of seven, the day was
met with bitterness. Without that days two dollars, her family would
not eat. She invited us to her home, which consisted of a tiny kitchen
and a bed and an outhouse in back. When the rainy season comes,
the [old] outhouses sometimes surface, and without drainage, my grandchildren
get sick. In order to buy medicine we have to go without food. (It
costs about $5 to cure dysentery.)
Many times in our travels in Nicaragua, two questions
had been posed: If your malady has a remedy, why does it afflict
you? And if it does not, why do you cry? Don Enrique, our contact
in the community of El Trapeche, lives his life asking these questions,
and his village of 800 residents in the Jalapa Valley is a community bent
on creating solutions.
Enrique is 55 years old and is the most bad-ass person
I have ever met. He can neither read nor write. However, in his spare
time, he organized construction of a gravity-fed water project that brought
clean drinking water to everyone in El Trapeche. When denied government
funding for a health clinic, he secured other funding and organized the
community to build its own.
His success as an organizer is mostly due to the people
in the community who demonstrate determinism and optimism, despite material
deprivation. Arthur Glasfeld, Reed chemistry professor and master stove
builder, said, Don Enrique is the ideal grandfather and has the
most committed family Ive ever seen. Ive learned a lot from
his family that I will hopefully remember when I next see mine.
Observing the communal patterns in El Trapeche encouraged
the 14 Reedies on the RCJE to come together and function more effectively.
Our nightly meetings, which initially had begun as an argument rather
than a meeting, evolved to a talking-stick regulated forum and finally
became a well-working community forum. Reed College is a place of refining
ideas. As liberal thinkers, we hope to apply these ideas to the world
to create solutions to its significant problems. In my opinion, the RJCE
not only has helped us see the scope of these problems, but also to realize
the effect that an educated community can have on the world at large.

Note: The 14 Reedies who participated
in the RJCE last May were 12 students, Arthur Glasfeld and Susan Mikota.
The trip was funded in part by the presidents discretionary fund,
the student body, and the students themselves. Plans are currently under
way for a second trip this spring.
We invite you to share your first-person essay centered
on your lifes changes, discoveries, blind alleys, contradications,
or epiphanies. Send manuscripts of no more than 500 words to End Note,
Reed magazine, 3203 SE Woodstock Blvd., Portland OR 97202-8199, or to
reed.magazine @reed.edu. We reserve the right to edit.
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